Give the paint a good mixing before you decant in to the cup as the aluminum settles out and needs a good whipping. I sometimes mix a new tin with a drill and a paddle then put it in to smaller tins and use it from that. And yes, press the rubber bit against what you are blasting - most of the media gets collected in the bag so you can reuse it - and it doesn't go everywhere. I found I had to run a higher pressure than the instructions claimed to get good results. Different shapes allow you to get in and seal to lots of nooks and crannies without too much lost media. The other gun will work - but the media will go everywhere and cover everything - not good. Works in a confined space like an empty garden shed where you can put a tarp down and collect the media for reuse. If you need to treat a large amount of rust it might make financial sense to use the BH, and it was still our favourite paint-on fluid, but we’d make sure we applied a decent amount of corrosion protection on top of the treatment too. Hammerite Kurust – Recommended

Once applied, the spray Jenolite had a waxy-like finish which meant it clung to our steel far better than the other liquids. Despite this greasy look, it took the paint without a problem. Its rust-busting performance was by far the best on test with minimal rust showing on our sample after its constant salt baths. Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 I have an Alfa Romeo 75 that is a running restoration, I'm working my way around the car bit by bit. It's not going to be a show car or anything like that but I still like to make sure I do my best with every part I work on.Oil and grease contamination will prevent the conversion First of all, a lot of the the underneath of most cars, especially Land Rovers, is contaminated with oil and grease from leaking oil seals etc. On oil or grease contaminated areas, unless the underside is extremely thoroughly cleaned, degreased, and then completely dried, the rust converter will not work. So you are very likely to have the nightmare scenario of an ineffective, poorly adhering coating sitting between the rusty surface and any coating of rustproofing wax, making the rustproofing wax totally ineffectual. Waxoyl, and my similar, more formulted CR coating, are petrochemicals very similar to oil and grease from leaking seals of mechanical parts on the underbody. A handy tub of Hammerite’s popular Kurust rust converter. Transforms rust to a sound surface in 15 minutes, ready for painting in just three hours. There are numerous types of these potions on the market, and they all claim to be the best, so we tested a selection of products to see which you should trust to sort your rust. How we tested them Use waxoil, this is great stuff however does dry out after so long not sure how long but it does, so has to be re-applied (if it was me id do it before every winter)

One side of the steel sample was left unpainted while the other was sprayed with a single coat of primer and acrylic top coat, replicating a typical DIY repair. Once dry, the samples were then doused daily in salty water for four weeks to encourage any corrosion to reappear. We then scored them on ease of use, rust-resisting performance and price. Verdict By brush: apply directly to the rusty area, working well into heavily pitted areas, corners and edges.The pot life is plenty long enough for our summers and the lower mix ratio of paint to hardener helps with mixing very small batches. But it offered very little in the way of long-term protection to our sample. The unpainted area was uniformly rusty again and it was starting to develop on the other side too. Loctite SF7503 Rust Remedy or sand blast it, but this is a painstaking process and not everyone has a sand blaster :L also to do it right would require dropping of the subframe. Let’s open the bottle up and see what this stuff looks like, I have never used it before so have no idea what’s inside. Inside The Kurust Bottle